How modern feminism is changing the fashion industry
On the crest of the fourth wave of feminism, we tighten our waist and build our lush hips in the Rococo style, transforming into Marie Antoinette. And this is not a whim, not a protest or objectification, but the realization of freedom of choice.
There is a long struggle for women's rights. One of the most famous and large-scale campaigns against violence began in the United States, 2017, and spread throughout the world.
In the same year, the theme of the Costume Institute Ball was chosen by Rei Kawakubo. She became the first after Yves Saint Laurent, to whom Met Gala dedicated the event during his lifetime, and not posthumously, calling it "the designer who had the greatest influence on modern fashion." Her clothes do just not decorate a woman, but, on the contrary, consciously disfigure. Coat tents do not flatter the figure, cocoon dresses do not build up the body, painfully swollen thighs do not add hips, and centimeters of growth are stolen. So it denotes a tectonic shift, which determined the course of fashion for an entire era in advance.
Last Spring, designers rehabilitated traditional femininity, but at a new level - singing femininity not in the evaluative, but in the broad sense. The key silhouette of the season is outlined by voluminous panes as if descended from the pages of books on the history of the costume - such designs were once made from willow twigs or whalebone and used to add splendor to the skirt.
Returning the lush hips to the podium, Loewe's creative director Jonathan Anderson fastens the skirt to the signature peplum belt, the Proenza Schouler duo creates the desired volume with draperies, Demna Gwasalia fits velvet over the domed frame, Kim Ellery uses side inserts, and Richard Malone uses curly “growths”. The hips expand and, together with fragile shoulders and a slack waist, draw the iconic image of Marie Antoinette.
Rococo is the time of feminized men's fashion. In the Rococo era, pink color became one of the main motifs in the culture, fashion, and lifestyle of the nobility, without having any sexual connection: women wore pink dresses, men - pink frock coats.
Let's recall a few striking rococo masculine looks such as Ezra Miller in a down jacket, Cody Fern in a translucent blouse and high-heeled boots from Maison Margiela and Billy Porter in a floral robe trimmed with pink satin.
Now fashion reflects socially significant trends, moods, and ideas. Today, the term self-realization is defining. Women succeed in traditionally male fields, run companies, including fashion, participate in conferences, diplomatic negotiations, and for the most part prefer their style to match their image - sophisticated, smart casual (sophisticated, elegant casual). The main trends today are convenience and comfort, men's fit, oversize, as well as a combination of incongruous.