Chloé Resort 2023

To build a responsible brand in the 2020s, you'll need to do more than use sustainable materials and reduce manufacturing and shipping expenses. Building advocacy and awareness into the marketing plan, according to Gabriela Hearst, is an important element of the process. She tackled the topic of rewilding in her fall show. She started into an energizing Zoom lesson in fusion for the resort.

“The problems fashion has are the problems that all industries have,” she started. “The world’s energy supply is 85% from fossil fuels, and if we don’t eliminate that situation we’re really walking into suicide. All these alternate energy sources—wind power, solar panels—don’t have the capacity.”

At the Paris show in September, she promised "a much bigger experience of it." Except for a solitary red dress with a scoop neck and wide poet sleeves, the fusion lesson comprised of broderie anglaise and laser cut leather in the shape of stars, and a night sky palette of exclusively black and white.

This season's highlights were twofold. First, she teamed with Barbour, a British outerwear brand known for its waxed jackets, on a trench with Chloé-inspired ruffles and a poncho, a shape she adores. The denim corset dress, duster coat, button-front vest, and a-line skirt are the result of a collaboration between Hearst and Adriano Goldschmeid, a California jeans expert. They're made up of 87 percent recycled cotton and 13 percent hemp, which is a great combination for the environment.