20 important collections over 20 years - expert choice
For twenty years, scenes worthy of high-budget action films have been played out on the catwalks. But if you put all the vivid displays of the last two decades in one row, you can get a clear picture of how the fashion developed from the 1990s to the present - what used to be in the beginning and what awaits us in the future. But no matter what happens on the catwalks, fashion will always remain a social form of art - any changes in society are reflected in it, like in a mirror.
The era of Snapchat and Instagram has brought its own adjustments into fashion - now that the photos from shows are available to anyone in any corner of the earth literally at the same time when models are walking on catwalks, it really makes no sense to wait six months from the show until the collection appears in stores. Let's take a look back and remember what fashion looked like in the 1990s and in 2000s - when each show was a theatrical production, and each collection remained a mystery.
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton
The era of Marc Jacobs in Louis Vuitton was remembered for powerful theatrical productions.
John Galliano for Dior
When John Galliano became the creative director of Dior in 1996, he added kitsch to the collections, breaking all the rules. He was one of the first to turn couture shows into spectacular performances.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana shows are usually held with the enchanting output of world catwalk stars. And no fireworks, artists, performances are needed.
Raf Simons for Dior
No one will forget the incredible beauty, the first fashion show by Raf for Dior, in 2012. The show was dedicated to the collection of Dior’s main inventions - from the Bar jacket to the New Look silhouette, and the scenery of the show was his main passion: flowers and gardening.
In his S/S 1999 show, Alexander McQueen finally proved that fashion can be art when robots sprayed paint on a model in a snow-white dress on a round catwalk. But the strongest feelings of the public were caused by the Autumn show of 2006, when the holographic ghost of Kate Moss appeared on the catwalk.
Enchanting in 2016 was the Tommy Hilfiger show, who built a real resort on the catwalk.
Jean Paul Gaultier
"Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015 Contest ”was the name of the designer’s last prêt-à-porter show. On the catwalk appeared not only the most iconic things of Gauthier for his entire career, but also models in the images of famous personalities - from Madonna to Dita von Teese.
Luxurious and one of the most chic shows was the Fendi show hosted by Karl Lagerfeld on the Great Wall of China. It tooks exactly 12 months and 10 million dollars to prepare this show, but it was worth it.
One of the first shows that raised important social issues was the S/S show of Hussein Chalayan in 1998 - the "Between" collection consisted of minimalist dresses created on the basis of Muslim paranja.
In history, Kenzo’s show, 2015, will forever remain, where Knola’s head hovered above the podium and repeated the words in different languages:
“Kenzo recalls that there is no spare planet. Please take care of what is truly valuable! ”
Viktor & Rolf
“Fashion needs performance madness,” designers Victor Horsting and Rolf Snoren like to repeat, and their shows only confirm this theory.
We recall one of the most striking fashion show of Miucci Prada, Summer 2014. The walls of the show were decorated with portraits of women - not famous, but simple, ordinary. The same portraits were broadcast on the dresses of the collection.
The Thierry Mugler's haute couture S/S 1997 show was dedicated to insects: instead of music, the performance began with a bothersome buzz, and the makeup of the models and some details of the dresses resembled butterfly coloring.
In 2006, at the show of his personal S/S collection, Marc Jacobs forced the University of Pennsylvania Orchestra to play the 1990s teenage theme "Smells Like Teen Spirit". Confetti streamed from all sides, and the guests felt like queens and kings.
For Pierre Cardin, nothing is impossible. His show S/S 2007 he staged in the Dunhuang desert. Due to the remoteness of the area, some models and guests traveled directly to the camels to the show.
At the Rick Owens S/S show, in 2014, there were no professional models - instead, clothes from the new collection were shown by female dancers from four American step groups.
One of the most noteworthy was Jeremy Scott's first show for Moschino in 2014.
The symbols of McDonald's were everywhere: in the red-yellow palette of the collection, trays on which the models carried clutches, in handbags and glasses.
For every fantastic show that Karl Lagerfeld arranged for his Chanel collections, there was always a social background. Haute couture, prêt-à-porter or Métiers d’Art, it was not just a show and beautiful clothes, it was a statement.
Vetements performs in 2015 were carried out at Paris's Le Depot Sex Club. In the collection, Gvasalia explores social types, the aesthetics of ill-being, taunts glamor and ideality.
The first collection of the new creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, who had already worked in the brand for 10 years: he joined the brand as an accessory designer, and then became Frida Giannini's main assistant. It was with this collection that the Gucci gender shift began: the models in the show looked androgynous, men wore lace, frills, large brooches and collars of the Victorian era.