The ups and downs of a formal men's suit

Fashion blogs call the 2000s period and era of masculinity or "menswear." During this period, men adhered to the “correct” men's wardrobe as much as possible: cotton shirts, blazers, brogues and derby boots. The Florentine exhibition Pitti Uomo has traditionally glorified conservative masculine motifs in clothing. Today, from the annual photo reports, we see men in hoodies and sweatpants in relaxed fit and sneakers. 

The fact that a classic suit is an attribute of maturity and should be in every man’s closet has long been considered a stereotype. And just a few years ago, in the wake of “streetwear”, the classic costume became less popular. The concept of a “dress code" was considered more and vaguer. Despite this, a men's suit is considered a universal thing that can be worn with less formal things and look original.

The audience was influenced by a generation of billionaires such as Steve Jobs or Mark Zuckerberg, whose daily uniforms were a black T-shirt/turtleneck and jeans. 

Fashion houses are increasingly seeing prospects in experiments and original combinations. One brilliant example is Tom Brown. In almost every collection of his, he takes the archetypal costume as a basis, turning it into a platform for experiments.

Another way to take a fresh look at a men's suit is through prints.  How can you not remember Dries Van Noten, who actively adds patterns to the costume in each collection? 

Re-invents a formal men's wardrobe, delicately combining deconstruction and minimalism, the Belgian brand Namacheko.

In turn, the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto in his S/S 2020 collection showed that the theme of men's suits is inexhaustible for him: silk, velvet, cotton, asymmetrical pajama patterns.

Each collection of the Gucci brand, which, as we are all used to seeing, erases borders, has a costume, but it is also rethought in its own way.

And finally, the Virgil Abloh collection for the Louis Vuitton brand, S/S 2020. Half of the images were formal men's suits, which, although they were rethought in the style of Abloh, no one from the God of street style did not expect this.